An Italian gem in Germantown, Mamma Lena, has garnered acclaim from The Washington Post. Recently, the Taste MoCo team visited to savor what many describe as “a slice of Italy in Germantown.” You can check out their video recap below.
Mamma Lena is nestled at 13507 Clopper Road in Seneca Park Plaza, discreetly positioned in a strip mall behind a 7-Eleven and Sunoco. However, stepping inside feels like entering a different world, far removed from its unassuming exterior. The authentic Italian cuisine it offers makes the visit unforgettable.
Having opened its doors about ten years ago, Mamma Lena now operates on a reservation-only basis, along with options for delivery and carryout. This demand was evident during the visit, as the restaurant buzzed with activity even on a Tuesday night. A 6:30 PM reservation quickly turned into a bustling dining room by 7:30 PM. The biggest surprise for many might be the ambiance; what seems like a typical neighborhood strip mall transforms into a dining experience reminiscent of a family-run eatery in Italy.
During the visit, the team was welcomed with complimentary bruschetta before ordering two glasses of wine priced at $10 each. The meal began with Fior Di Zucca, featuring fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella, followed by Fiocchi Gorgonzola e Pera, a delightful pasta filled with cheese and pear in a creamy gorgonzola sauce. They also enjoyed Limoncello Ravioli with shrimp and Rosso a la Pescatore, a red pepper fettuccine adorned with mussels, clams, and shrimp in a white wine cherry tomato sauce. To conclude the meal, they savored a house-made tiramisu.
The restaurant gained broader recognition last year when renowned Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema praised it for its “generous portions of expertly crafted pastas and more,” shining a light on a hidden treasure. Sietsema noted that the restaurant’s roots extend back decades, with the family moving to the Washington area in 1994 when Carlo Varriale began working at the Italian Embassy. Meanwhile, Lena Borrello honed her culinary skills in Italy, including stints at renowned restaurants like Assunta Madre in Rome. Their son, Giovanni Varriale, later attended Walt Whitman High School in Bethesda.
The menu features classic dishes like tagliatelle alla Bolognese and carbonara, alongside unique offerings such as fiocchi gorgonzola e pera, which showcases pasta filled with cheese and pear in a creamy gorgonzola sauce. Seafood lovers will appreciate the Rosso alla Pescatore, brimming with mussels, clams, and shrimp. Beyond pasta, the menu includes entrees like pollo parmigiana with burrata and eggplant parmigiana, as well as a variety of pizzas such as the Regina topped with prosciutto and arugula, and the Bufalina made with fresh buffalo mozzarella and basil.
