At Carlos Delgado’s intimate new dining spot in Eastern Market, attention to detail is paramount. From the handmade ceramic hand roll holders resembling natural stones to the menu’s glossary providing translations for Peruvian terms, the effort and dedication Delgado has invested into this cozy 25-seat venue are evident at first glance. Maru San is set to welcome guests on Friday, February 20, introducing a menu that features delectable hand rolls, fresh sashimi, and a lavish 15-course tasting option ($115) that showcases the rich flavors of Nikkei cuisine. This unique culinary tradition originates from the Japanese immigrants who settled in Peru during the 1800s.
Upon entering Maru San, nestled between a hair salon and the Ukrainian restaurant Ruta, you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped into a whole new era, far removed from the historical charm of Eastern Market. The restaurant presents a minimalist design, characterized by dark wood paneling and an elegant black marble counter. A striking mural of a pink and orange octopus created by Brooklyn artist Carson DeYoung dominates the ceiling, cleverly concealing powerful speakers that fill the space with laid-back, tropical house music reminiscent of Delgado’s playlists at his renowned Peruvian restaurants, Causa and Amazonia, located in Blagden Alley.
Intricate craftsmanship extends to the tableware as well. Delgado collaborated with an artist in Lima to create hand roll holders designed to feel natural, resembling a raw stone with its unique grooves and textures. These delicate pieces were carefully transported back to the U.S. in his luggage. Complementing the holders, the water cups mimic small boulders, and your chopsticks are elegantly displayed in a tiny 3D-printed octopus. Guests can also select their sake glasses from a box filled with unique vessels imported from Japan, with some pieces valued at $200 each.
The workspace is compact yet efficient, featuring large dry-aging fridges stocked with fish, a few induction burners, and rice cookers that cleverly slide in and out from under the counter. Chef Simon Lam, a former José Andrés protégé, who has been collaborating with Delgado for over ten years, emphasized that ideally, the team of three to four chefs will never leave their assigned spots during service, accessing ingredients and cooking implements without needing to move around.
The menu is a beautiful balance of traditional Peruvian and Japanese flavors, offering dishes such as quickly-seared wagyu beef tataki with aji panca (smoky chili peppers), as well as thinly sliced raw fish accompanied by a leche de tigre sauce infused with aji amarillo (spicy yellow peppers). Delgado emphasizes that Maru San is dedicated to presenting authentic Nikkei cuisine rather than a mere fusion of Japanese and Peruvian food. Even though he does not identify as ethnically Japanese, Delgado’s childhood in Callao immersed him in Nikkei culture, reinforcing that “nikkei is its own category within the Peruvian culinary spectrum.”
Hand rolls serve as a prime way to make Nikkei cuisine accessible and efficient for diners. These rolls feature ingredients such as hamachi (yellowtail), toro (fatty tuna), and lobster in sets ranging from three to six rolls at a discounted price. For those seeking luxury, options like uni (sea urchin) and foie gras can also be included in the hand rolls. Delgado aims to provide a diverse and “affordable experience with exceptionally high standards” that locals can savor multiple times a week. Each hand roll is accompanied by homemade soy sauce and droppers filled with rocoto hot sauce, made from peppers fermented in a large glass container on display behind the counter.
The “Maru Experience” offers a more exclusive dining option, where Delgado and Lam will personally serve carefully crafted courses using seasonal ingredients, fermented treats, and their current obsessions. Initial offerings include the Chirashi Acevichado, a sushi rice dish topped with uni and layered with fresh or dry-aged fish accompanied by a tangy ceviche sauce. This tasting menu, reserved for only four diners (occasionally five on special occasions), will be available at 7 p.m. Friday through Monday. Earlier in January, Delgado discreetly launched reservations for April and May through Resy, all of which are now fully booked. More openings for February and March will be announced soon.
After three years of development, Delgado’s vision for Maru San emerges at a particularly exciting time for Nikkei cuisine. Notably, Lima’s Maido recently received the title of the best restaurant in the world according to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants for 2025. Additionally, Delgado has just been honored with the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic award at the 2025 James Beard Awards. “It’s interesting how everything seems to align,” he remarks, adding that he has been quietly educating D.C. diners through a recent Causa menu, which introduces the elements of Nikkei cuisine and its Peruvian roots. While establishments like Penn Quarter’s China Chilcano, where Delgado previously served as the executive chef, have showcased Nikkei influences alongside other culinary styles, Maru San stands out as the first D.C. restaurant solely dedicated to celebrating this distinct culture.
Initially, Maru San will operate on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, allowing Delgado to balance his commitments at Causa and Amazonia. However, plans are in place to expand operations to seven days a week within a few months, with lunch service anticipated to launch by the end of summer.
