On May 14, a slice of Louisiana culture arrived on the banks of the Anacostia River as Catahoula made its debut at the picturesque waterfront location formerly occupied by All-Purpose pizzeria (79 Potomac Ave SE).
At Catahoula, rustic Louisiana cuisine is artfully combined with French culinary techniques. The dining space has been transformed to evoke the ambiance of a classic Parisian brasserie located in New Orleans—think of the renowned flagship of Emeril Lagasse nestled in the Warehouse District. The inviting patio is adorned with vibrant red bulbs and features a large fleur-de-lis, creating a fitting setting for communal crawfish boils served on brown paper with fresh corn on the cob.
The establishment, which takes its name from Louisiana’s state dog known for its distinctive leopard-like patterns, promises an array of dishes beyond just crawfish boils. The menu features Creole Cajun fare intermingled with Vietnamese influences, which have gained popularity in both New Orleans and Houston. Highlights include crispy okra with lemongrass salt, pork neck skewers glazed with a caramel fish sauce, and a double-bone Mangalitsa pork chop adorned with a banh mi-style pickled carrot and daikon topping.
The culinary team’s deep-rooted ties to Louisiana include Executive Chef Thomas Malz, who has spent time in the state, along with Beverage Director Rachel Sergi, who has visited frequently since 1992.
Sergi shares, “This place is a love letter to the food, culture, camaraderie, and hospitality of New Orleans,” in a statement to Eater.
For Chef Malz, Catahoula marks a return to his culinary roots, utilizing his extensive butchery experience from his time at the Partisan in D.C. to create his own boudin, a type of Cajun sausage.
Menu highlights encompass a variety of offerings, including raw and broiled oysters drizzled with Herbsaint cream, meticulously carved prime rib named after the legendary chef Paul Prudhomme, as well as large po’ boys, seasonal gumbo, and wok-fried alligator. A tomato-based seafood stew featuring catfish is served with Louisiana rice and rouille.
Catahoula’s upstairs terrace, reminiscent of the vibrant atmosphere at Bacchanal in New Orleans, features a wine fridge, its own bar, umbrellas, and sleek red stools. Interestingly enough, a bald cypress—the state tree of Louisiana—grows right in front. “It feels like you’re not in Washington,” Malz reflects. Another quirky touch includes a framed portrait of Francois L’Anglois, who happens to be Malz’s 15th-great-grandfather, located near a jazzy wall adorned with trumpets and clarinets at the entrance.
Malz sources Louisiana crawfish directly through his Southern connections, ensuring their availability during the peak season from November to July. After that, he plans to blend Cajun flavors with fresh ingredients from the Chesapeake Bay.
Desserts at Catahoula range from powdered beignets and a decadent 12-layer carrot cake to summer adaptations of traditional baked Alaska using spices historically brought to Louisiana by sailors. “We’re aiming to explore the diverse culinary depths of the state,” Malz stated.
Regarding cocktails, veteran D.C. mixologist Sergi emphasizes, “Our goal is to represent, not replicate” New Orleans, while also aiming to provide exceptional drinks.”
One standout drink, a blue daiquiri infused with Curacao, pays homage to a late blue-eyed catahoula that belonged to Malz’s great aunt, who was impacted by Hurricane Katrina. Other French Quarter classics include the Sazerac, Hurricane, Ramos gin fizz enhanced with Old Tom gin, a French 75, and an Old Fashioned made with chicory bitters. Additionally, frozen drink machines serve neon-green Hand Grenades and Irish coffees.
To streamline the lengthy shaking method of gin fizz cocktails, the bar features a green cast-iron cocktail cranker that required a significant investment from Catahoula.
A vintage steak broiler, reminiscent of those found in New Orleans or New York City, has been sourced for cooking prime rib and steak frites, affectionately named Artemis in tribute to NASA’s New Orleans workforce involved in the rocket program, with a gold plaque inscribed accordingly.
Designer David Anthony Chenault has curated a section of the restaurant filled with unique voodoo decor, featuring shelves adorned with skulls, literary fragments from NOLA, and apothecary jars containing vibrant liquids. Crystal chandeliers draped with flickering bulbs add a touch of the mystique typically associated with New Orleans.
“The atmosphere should make you feel luxurious, even if you’re dressed casually in a T-shirt and flip flops,” Chenault notes.
Catahoula is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., with the kitchen closing at 10 p.m.
