Recently, Washington D.C. has transformed into a pizza hotspot, far beyond just offering the iconic late-night jumbo slice. The city now boasts a diverse array of options, including numerous Detroit-style pizzerias and one acclaimed slice shop that has begun to expand throughout the area. However, among this plethora of choices, a notable absence has been true Chicago tavern-style pizza — that is, until now.
La Merna is set to open its doors at 2153 P Street NW in Dupont Circle on Thursday, August 13, featuring those ultra-thin crusts sliced into bite-sized squares.
The husband-and-wife team of Bradley Shorten and Meg Schmitt, both proudly hailing from Chicago, have launched La Merna in the space that formerly housed Duffy’s Irish Pub, conveniently located just a few blocks from Dupont Circle. Their vision extends beyond merely filling the Chi-town pizza gap in D.C.; they are also looking to provide innovative spins on cherished Italian cuisine. The menu features a talented pizzaiolo who previously helmed a small yet popular pizza establishment in a suburb of Chicago called Kim’s Uncle Pizza, acclaimed for its uniquely crispy, cracker-like pizza crust.
Shorten distinguishes his offerings from other recent Midwest-style pizzas, such as Dog Daze Social Club and Giordano’s, by focusing heavily on crispiness and ensuring that every pizza is generously topped all the way to the edges of the crust.
Shorten mentions, “We push the line on what a burnt pizza is, and sometimes we go over it,” clarifying that he aims to avoid any undercooked sections while achieving a perfectly crispy middle. The dough is allowed to age for nearly a week, undergoing a fermentation process before being rolled out and cured to achieve its signature crackly texture. He encourages patrons to try the pies topped with giardiniera and sausage, as well as a fungi option featuring taleggio cheese and sungold cherry tomato cream. Another choice is the classic pepperoni and hot honey pizza, adorned with freshly made straciatella cheese, with customizable options available ranging from $22 to $30.
La Merna marks the first culinary venture the couple has embarked on together. They originally crossed paths years ago when Shorten obtained cheeses from Schmitt while managing his first restaurant, Pizza Fried Chicken Ice Cream, alongside partners who now run Pizz’amici, a renowned Chicago establishment. The cheeses used in their menu—ricotta, mozzarella, and stracciatella—are as integral as the pizzas themselves. Inspired by Schmitt’s formal cheese training in Italy and her culinary prowess, they have expanded the menu to include pastas, salads, and house-made toast, which features salted butter paired with either anchovies or stracciatella and melon.
In Bologna, Schmitt honed her skills in pasta-making, working with various recipes that include ravioli stuffed with ricotta and ’nduja, paired with tomato butter and lemon cream; sheets of spinach fazzoletti complimented by short rib ragu and generous amounts of mozzarella and ricotta; and fried gnudi, which are spinach and ricotta dumplings served with basil, provola, and vodka sauce, with prices ranging from $14 to $32.
An exciting late-night menu will also debut, featuring two varieties of the Juicy Lucy burger — a rarity in D.C. — offering patties that are crispy on the outside while being filled with molten cheese. One option is a classic with pickles and onions, while the other presents an Italian twist complete with taleggio cheese, caramelized onions, mushroom pate, and pancetta.
The bar at La Merna offers a delightful selection of classic cocktails inspired by the traditional supper clubs of the Midwest. Standout items on the drink menu include a rhubarb spritz featuring rhubarb vermouth and sparkling rosé, a tomato martini that incorporates pickled sungolds and basil with the option for vodka or gin, a limoncello gin and tonic accented with black peppercorns, and a watermelon margarita with a ginger Tajín rim, priced between $14 and $16.
One particular drink embodies the spirited atmosphere that La Merna aims to cultivate during late-night hours from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. on weekends: the Coffee & Cigarettes cocktail. This espresso martini variation is crafted with smoky vermouth and, for an additional $3, is served with an actual cigarette.
The restaurant’s interior reflects a charming vintage style complemented by mood lighting. “I think it looks really fun, and we’re looking for something kind of sexy but whimsical,” Shorten shared. Leveraging his background in interior design, he crafted the layout himself, embellishing the space with vintage finds sourced from Wisconsin, Chicago, and various antique shops around D.C. They even created a unique font that draws inspiration from classic Italian film posters. The ambiance evolves from bright golden tones during early evening hours to sultry red hues as the night deepens.
The couple took a bold step to relocate to D.C. after a friend introduced them to the space formerly occupied by Duffy’s, stepping away from their respective businesses: Shorten’s pizza shop and Schmitt’s cheese company, which will continue to be managed by staff while they focus on bringing La Merna to life. “It felt right,” Shorten recounted.
La Merna is currently in its soft opening phase, which extends through this weekend, with reservations already available on Resy, filling up rapidly. Thanks to strong word-of-mouth and a simple sign announcing their neighborhood preview, their initial weekend was a tremendous success. “We just put a sign in the door saying we’re opening for a neighborhood preview, so come on by, and we were filled up both nights,” Schmitt explained.
Looking ahead, the couple plans to launch a sandwich window next door focused on stewed meats, slated to open by October, which may initially operate during weekends only. Their offerings will include iconic Italian beef sandwiches along with a thick-cut hot salami sandwich topped with garlic cheese spread, pepperoncinis, and mustard, inspired by Schmitt’s St. Louis roots.
At present, La Merna operates from Thursday through Sunday, welcoming guests starting at 5 p.m. and closing at midnight on Thursdays and extending to 2 a.m. on weekends.
