I first crossed paths with Steve Chu around 2015, during the early days of Ekiben. Though the exact details of our first meeting escape me, I recall the welcoming aura that surrounded him right from the beginning.
As I witnessed Ekiben making waves in Baltimore’s culinary scene, I couldn’t shake the feeling that they were destined for success. Both Steve and his business partner, Ephrem Abebe, exude warmth and authenticity. They embody a trendy ethos while ensuring everyone around them feels valued. Their positivity is infectious, and it’s easy to root for their accomplishments. Above all, their enthusiasm for Baltimore is palpable.
After indulging in their Neighborhood Bird Bowl — in my opinion, one of the finest dishes in Baltimore — alongside their tempura broccoli, I quickly grasped what makes Ekiben special. Not to mention, I can’t resist their shrimp snacks and tofu either.
I find it particularly disheartening when restaurants offer dishes they assume diners will prefer, rather than what they genuinely wish to create. Ekiben breaks that mold with innovative offerings I never even considered before. Their philosophy resonates deeply: “Here’s what I meticulously crafted, refined, and perfected. Now, I’d love for you to give it a try and share your thoughts.” This dedication, paired with their zest for culinary exploration, encapsulates the spirit of Ekiben.
A notable illustration of Steve’s admirable character occurred around 2017. When I expressed interest in writing about him and Ekiben for a local magazine, he responded, “Sure, but let’s also highlight my dad’s story. Jumbo has a fanbase, but I think more people should know about him.” We then enjoyed a meal at his father’s restaurant, Jumbo Seafood in Pikesville (which has since changed hands). There, I learned about Mr. Chu’s journey from Taiwan to the United States and his unwavering commitment to providing for his family. It was a truly inspiring narrative, not just because of my fondness for Mr. Chu. The stories of immigrants and their contributions deserve celebration.
For those familiar with Ekiben’s culinary offerings and their remarkable journey, you might be aware of the touching event in 2021 when Steve, Ephrem, and their colleague Joe made a special trip to Vermont. Their mission involved preparing tempura broccoli and tofu bowls for a terminally ill customer. On the day of this heartfelt excursion, I serendipitously encountered Ephrem, who remarked, “We’re not seeking recognition; we simply felt compelled to do this.” This attitude exemplifies their character.
What else can I share about my friend, Steve?
His work ethic is unparalleled in my experience. (Refer to his personal motto below.)
He maintains high standards as a boss, shaped by his own rigorous experiences.
Steve cherishes his roles as a husband and father as much as his identity as a chef.
He’s always on a quest for self-improvement, whether in fitness, cuisine, or various aspects of life.
Every encounter, whether a shared meal or a casual meeting in the city, brightens my day.
Here are his 13 insights.
Cake or pie? And, what kind?
That’s a fun question. Generally, I lean towards cake, but an exceptional pie can steal the show. I’m especially fond of pies brimming with fresh seasonal fruits, like berries, cherries, and peaches. While apple pie has its merits, sometimes it doesn’t quite hit the mark.
Your most prized possession?
The relationships I hold with my wife, family, and friends are invaluable. My journey wouldn’t be the same without their support. A special nod to Ephrem, who has tolerated my quirks for years.
What’s your favorite thing to order out at restaurants?
I enjoy intricate dishes: Beef Wellington, expertly made pasta, skillfully crafted sushi, or perfectly crispy potatoes.
What’s your favorite thing to cook at home?
Interestingly, I find joy in cooking with my wok. It evokes memories of my time in the family restaurant, but in a more laid-back setting.
What is your morning beverage and how do you take it?
Coffee is my drink of choice—served black on an empty stomach. Occasionally, I add a Liquid I.V. if I’m gearing up for a workout.
What’s your personal motto?
Team no sleep.
What is your favorite holiday and why?
Thanksgiving used to be my favorite holiday because of the delicious food. I spent many Christmases at Jumbo Seafood, which was always bustling with activity. However, now that I have the flexibility to create new family traditions, I’ve come to appreciate Christmas even more—it essentially feels like an enhanced version of Thanksgiving.
Best advice you were ever given? And from whom?
My dad once told me, “Business is built one customer at a time.” It’s a lesson passed down through generations in our family.
What do you feel is your greatest accomplishment?
Witnessing Ekiben’s growth has been fulfilling; however, I take the most pride in seeing my team flourish and strive to be their best selves. Personally, achieving sobriety stands out as a significant milestone in my life. It has transformed me into a better husband, father, and leader. The fast-paced world of hospitality often blurs the lines between family and work-life, and choosing sobriety has offered me clarity and quality time with my loved ones, something I hold dear.
The last text you sent?
I sent an “ILY” to my wife.
What is your idea of perfect happiness?
I believe that happiness is a journey rather than a destination. Each peak one reaches simply marks the start of another climb.
What do you love most about food?
Food is the ultimate means of fostering connections and demonstrating care for others.
Your favorite place in Baltimore?
In no specific order:
– The waterfront — any area will do as it offers a sense of peace.
– Sherwood Gardens (despite my severe pollen allergies!).
As for dining? Beyond the well-loved spots like La Maison, Equitea, and Dipasquales, I must mention a few hidden gems. Kanom Cafe is a family-run establishment that delivers exceptional fare. Lenny’s Delicatessen stands out for its unique cafeteria service style, which I find fascinating. They always get my order right without any hitches. Lastly, Brooms Bloom may not be in the heart of Baltimore, but their peach ice cream, crab soup, and sandwiches evoke nostalgic memories of summer days in Maryland.
Read more from Amy Langrehr in her series of columns, including the Baker’s Dozen and more on her Substack, Cream Cheese + Olives.
